Frances R. Curcio
Part 2: A Visit to Three Additional UNESCO World Heritage Sites—The Great Barrier Reef, Angkor Wat, and the Taj Mahal
After one week and three stops (i.e., Machu Picchu, Rapa Nui, and Fiji, see Part 1), my travel companions and I continued our thrilling journey around the world, with visits to the Great Barrier Reef, Australia; Angkor Wat, Cambodia; and the Taj Mahal, India. As natural wonders and historical cultural treasures, respectively, each has been deemed a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. These stops were truly overwhelmingly beautiful and mesmerizing—It was like taking a ride on Aladin’s magic carpet.
En route to Australia, while flying over the Pacific Ocean, we had a clear view of several volcanic islands (see Photo 1). This natural phenomenon was new to me. I learned that such islands are formed by volcanoes erupting from the earth’s deep-sea mantle. As the magma solidifies, land surfaces are formed in the ocean. Some become inhabitable islands (e.g., the Hawaiian Islands), some remain uninhabitable, while others are washed away.
The Great Barrier Reef, Port Douglas, Australia
In preparation for my visit to the Great Barrier Reef, I read Iain McCalman’s monumental work, The Reef: A Passionate History, and several recent articles from The New York Times. I also watched an episode of The Ship, “Heading Out,” on BBC’s Discovery Channel, retracing Captain James Cook’s Endeavor voyage on June 11, 1770 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qo73ByQFoE).
After traveling ninety minutes on a hydrofoil out of Port Douglas, the closest mainland port to the Reef, my travel friends and I had several options: certified diving, snorkeling, and semi-submersible cruising. I opted to explore the Reef in a semi-submersible. It was a thrill to view the wonders of the coral structures (see Photo 2) along with the many varieties of colorful exotic fish, whose existence and survival are dependent on the reefs.
Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981 as a great natural wonder, the Great Barrier Reef is not only the largest coral reef structure in the world, it is the largest living structure on Earth! Existing along 1430 miles of Australia’s east coast, the Great Barrier Reef consists of one thousand islands and 3,000 individual reefs, with an area measuring approximately 133,000 square miles.
The coral reefs have existed for millennia. Indigenous tribes were most likely aware of their existence. It has been noted that in the sixteenth century, some European explorers encountered them, but it was not until 1770, when Capt. James Cook’s ship, the Endeavor, was badly damaged by the coral reef structures while sailing in eastern Australian waters. that Cook’s journals and reports brought attention to this magnificent underwater ecosystem.
Coral was originally thought to be some kind of plant. However, in 1724, French naturalist, Jean-André Peyssonel argued that coral was not a plant, but rather a living organism. At first, many did not believe him, but by the mid-eighteenth century, it was classified and recognized as a living organism by scientists.
Based on current research and reef analyses, environmental changes are affecting the well-being of the coral reefs. There is concern and worry about the future of these fragile structures. As stated by McCalman, “Corals are indeed the canaries of climate change” (2013, p. 275).
Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia
I recall that my first visit to Angkor Wat in January 2016, was a moving spiritual experience. My thoughts were overwhelmed by the haunting effects of the temples. Along with my notes and the comprehensive map that I saved from my first visit (Ministry of Tourism and Cambodian National Commission for UNESCO), I brought the vivid memories of my initial feelings with me. This time my fellow travelers and I arrived very early to experience sunrise over the temples. The setting greatly influenced my soul-stirring mood while at the same time, the experience was exciting and exhilarating. (See Photo 3.)
Built in the 12th Century under the rule of King Suryavarman II who reigned from 1113 to about 1150 C.E., Angkor Wat is the world’s largest religious stone structure with more than 1,000 buildings, constructed over a 30-year period. Occupying about 400 acres, the temples exemplify exquisite Khmer architecture. Originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishu, by the end of the 12th century, the complex became a Buddhist shrine. By the early 15th Century, due to what some scholars believe to be one of the reasons for the demise of the complex, there was an inadequate water supply. The complex was abandoned and as a result, the temples deteriorated. Between 1858 and 1860, French explorer and naturalist Henri Mouhot visited Angkor Wat, and was inspired to write that Angkor Wat is “grander than anything left to us by Greece or Rome” (1864).
After many years of neglect, restoration started in the 1920s and continued for many years. Recent revitalization and conservation efforts have been underway to preserve the sandstone bas-reliefs and artifacts. The complex was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992.
During our visit our guide Sam led us through some of the most celebrated features of Angkor Wat, the bas-relief sculptures, pointing out Hindu gods and Khmer scenes. As depicted in the image below from the south wing of the West Gallery, Sam described the Battle of Kurukshet.
Visits to Ta Prohm and Bayon were also included. Ta Prohm, was built in 1186 at the height of the Khmer Empire by Buddhist King Jayavarman VII in honor of his family. The temple complex was abandoned in the 15th Century after the fall of the Empire. Covered by overgrown trees and giant roots, the temple became known as the “Jungle Temple.”
Bayon Temple located in Angkor Thom, was built in the late 12th or early 13th Century, also by King Jayavarman VII. Exemplifying the baroque style of Khmer architecture, the temple originally contained 54 towers each with four faces, but now only 34 remain on the site. Based on its structure, scholars believe that the temple was used both for Hindu and Buddhist worship.
Although these historical treasures reinforced my original impressions from 2016, I could not end my brief visit without reflecting on the horror, terror, and tragedy experienced by the Cambodians during the dictatorial rule of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge’s crimes against humanity in the 1970s. More than 1 million people including highly skilled and educated Cambodians were killed. Our guides did not voluntarily speak about this dark time in Cambodian history. They were proud to focus on the positive changes that have brought them opportunities, joy, and honor.
The Taj Mahal, Agra, India
When looking at photos of the Taj Mahal, I always felt as though there was something magical about it. Seeing this architectural masterpiece in person confirmed my feelings. It was truly breathtaking. As one of the Seven Modern Wonders of the World, the Taj Mahal was recognized by UNESCO in 1983 as a World Heritage Site.
Beautifully situated on the right bank of the river Yamuna in Agra, the buildings in the complex are differentiated in color. The main structure, the mausoleum, is composed of white marble with inlaid pietra dura (i.e., an inlay technique to create decorative images with highly polished colored stones). The other structures of imperial design are constructed from red sandstone.
Built from 1632 to 1648 to honor the memory of Mumtaz Mahal, the second and favorite wife of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, the ivory-white marble mausoleum, a testament of the Shah’s eternal love, is an esthetic example of symmetry that illustrates Persian, Hindu, and Islamic influences. The octagonal burial hall contains the cenotaphs (i.e., the empty tombs) of Mumtaz and Shah Jahan. We were told that their actual burial tombs are located on a lower level of the mausoleum.
The interior of the Taj Mahal is adorned with precious and semi-precious pietri dure. Embedded verses and passages are from the Qur’an. To provide a uniform visual effect, it is amazing how the calligraphic font sizes increase with height.
Although intended to have a holy and uplifting effect, texts of the Word of God in Arabic from the Qur’an are displayed throughout the mausoleum, situated in hard-to-read places. The passages “speak in one way or another of the Day of Judgment, divine mercy, and Paradise promised to the faithful” (Koch, 2006, p. 225). Persian inscriptions are also included.
As I read about the Taj Mahal and the translated verses, I was particularly touched by one of the verses placed at the upper cenotaph of Mumtaz:
As for those who say, ‘Our Lord is God’, and take the straight path
towards Him, the angels come down to them and say, ‘Have no fear
or grief, but rejoice in the good news of Paradise, which you have
been promised.’ (Koch, 2006, p. 228)
Although millions of people visit the Taj Mahal each year, it wasn’t until 1959 that the first sitting American president toured the magnificent mausoleum. Similar to the dreams of many people, President Dwight D. Eisenhower dreamt about visiting the site when he was a boy growing up in Kansas. When he finally arrived, he said it was a “‘lovely, lovely thing’” (Baker, 1959, p. 1).
A Closing Thought
My travel friends and I were able to appreciate and enjoy these very special sites. Efforts to preserve nature, beauty, and all forms of life on earth must be a top priority for all of humanity. How can we, as individuals, change our self-centered behaviors to respect nature and life in all its forms? Some soul-searching is required, and actions must be taken to avoid irrevocable negative consequences.
Part 3, the final installment, will describe experiences in Serengeti Wildlife Preserve, Tanzania; Cairo and Luxor, Egypt; and Marrakech, Morocco.
Recommended Reading
“Angkor Wat—The Bas-relief Galleries.” https://helloangkor.com/attractions/angkor_wat_the_bas_relief-galleries
Baker, Russell. (14 December 1959). “Eisenhower Fulfills Boyhood Ambition: Sees the Taj Mahal.” The New York Times, p. 1. https://www.nytimes.com/1959/12/14/archives/eisenhower-fulfills-boyhood-ambition-sees-the-taj-mahal-president.html?searchResultPosition=1
Coe, Michael D. (2004). Angkor and the Khmer Civilization. United Kingdom: Thames & Hudson Ltd.
Delgado, Anton L. (25 August 2024). “Bus Brings History Class to Cambodian Students.” The New York Times, pp. A1, A7.
Einhorn, Catrin. (16 April 2024). “Scientists Say Rising Ocean Temperatures Are Damaging Coral Reefs Around the World.” The New York Times, p. A9.
Einhorn, Catrin. (8 August 2024). “Heat Raises Fears of ‘Demise’ for Great Barrier Reef within a Generation.” The New York Times, p. A7.
Koch, Ebba. (2006). The Complete Taj Mahal. United Kingdom: Thames & Hudson.
McCalman, Iain. (2013). The Reef: A Passionate History. New York: Scientific American and Farrar, Straus and Giroux.
Mouhot, M. Henri. (1864). Chapter 12:” Description of the Temple of Ongcor—Observations on these Ruins, and on others in the Provinces of Ongcor and Battambong.” In Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-Chila (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos, during the years 1858, 1859, and 1860. London: John Murray. https://www.gutenberg.org/files/46559/46559-h/46559-h.htm#Page_192.
Tilloston, Giles. (2008). Taj Mahal. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.
